Be mindful of the metal in these bad boys. I learned early that the Gods have hidden the beauty deep within the ugly log and unless you’re willing to work for it, you’ll never find it. In fact, I’ll take the ugliest, twisted, most malformed and bent atrocities over a perfectly straight log any day of the week, and turn high-figured lumber six ways from Sunday. Lyle Jamieson has several good youtube videos on preparing blanks with a chain saw.I’ve never been one to shy away from an ugly log. When ready to turn I knock off the corners with the chain saw as I can get it round on the lathe much quicker than I can clean my bandsaw. Lots of folks use a work mate or similar. I use my workbench to cut the length note the 2X under the log to insure I do not hit the vice.
Most of the larger cuts are to have quartersawn in sycamore, oak, or other woods as much as removing the pith. On larger I may cut 1/2" each side up to 1.5" each side. On 8" I just cut down the center and the width of the blade removes the pith. I anchor seal the ends and about one inch of the cut.
#Sawing logs free
If the wood is free it doesn't matter much. Typically I cut the length 4" longer than the diameter to allow for some cracks on the ends. The pic with the one inch push pin show how I cut that one yes I could have cut it L to R but the different sides would dry (warp) very different. You should try to cut so the blank is balanced as the pith is not always in the center. To cut down on stringy shavings try to cut at 45* as much as possible. I cut lengthwise with a standard chain all the time. I always use a support log when splitting because to provides mass and resistence to the dynamics of the splitting force. The cutting process will "draw" the subject log into the blade as it cuts, so beware. If you don't have too many, I would drive a few screws through the log at the base into the support log, keeping them far away from the cutting path. The dog teeth will hold the saw in place until you get a kerf started IF you are careful, so do be very careful! This is not an operation for the inexperienced sawyer in my opinion.
#Sawing logs full
Have the saw bumped up to the outer diameter and running at full speed. Starting a rip cut on the top of a log is dangerous and requires you I say, split what you can and saw what you can't split, but use the correct chain. So it depends on the place where the log is taken from the tree as well. On crotch wood, it will be way more difficult and they may not split evenly or at all. You can use a splitting wedge or maul on lengths of straight grain wood and very easily make your turning rounds. My Stihl dealer will make up blades with the aggressive set for their "professional" tree trimmer customers. The "safety blade" that is factory issue on chain saws these days is not good for ripping. Crosscutting to length or bucking is far different than ripping, just like on the table saw, it requires a different blade. I also have heated with wood for many years. The aggressive cut chain is great for ripping short sections of logs less chance of hitting oneself with the saw in a kick back. But I stand to the side of the saw and never ever directly over it. and i won't lie, I have had a kick back or two. I have been using the second type chains for 18 years now. it cuts like greased lightning when sharp, it can also kick back easier than type one. The second type of chain, is generally available only at chain saw dealers and does not have the the same high "anti kickback" features in the chain. This first type is the Harry Homeowner kind of chain. it has raised humps on the chain to prevent the chain from digging too deep into the wood and kicking back. One is the standard chain you get at a hardware store. There are two basic types of chain for the smaller of the Stihl chain saws. That was a great deal of wood which required a good chain saw. I heated my house with wood for 12 years. There are even different angles to sharpen the teeth for green wood or dry wood. depending on how familiar you are with chains saws, there are several different chains. I have cut hundreds of pieces of firewood with the grain and never had a ripping chain. Yes there are special rip chains for saws, but if your chain is sharp, you don't need one.
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